Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Birds
Posted by juliana on June 1st, 2008 filed in Birds, Marine WildlifeComment now »
Monterey Bay Aquarium has a three bird exhibits. The Aviary, The penguin exhibit, and the new Common Murres. I enjoy all of them, but the Aviary is my favorite.
The Aviary
The aviary is an exhibit featuring many different bird species, such as Bufflehead ducks, a Ruddy duck, 
Sanderlings, Snowy Plovers, Semipalmated Plovers, a Black-necked Stilt, a Black Oystercatcher, a Long-billed Curlew, and more. It is really interesting to see all of the different species of birds. Their exhibit consists of water, sand, and brush. In the water their are some sharks and rays. An interesting feature of their exhibit is the how they have a machine in the water that moves back and forth creating waves to mimic their natural habitat! One bird that particularly interested me swam around the water in circles to catch the fish it ate. My favorite bird was the snowy plover.
Penguins
In the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Splash Zone, they have an African black-footed penguin exhibit. When I was there, almost all of them clustered around the glass, where the most people were watching them. One of them was molting. In the exhibit they have a glass “bubble” you can crawl into and watch the penguins swim around you. The Splash Zone is newly remodeled, so they have made some changes at the penguin exhibit, they now have a penguin trivia game next to the exhibit.
Common Murres
Next to the penguin exhibit they have some new Common Murres. They’re on a ledge overlooking the Outer Bay exhibit.
Monterey Bay Aquarium rescued these Murres from an oil spill. They have about eight of them. They’re very cute!
Bird-Watching Tips
Posted by juliana on March 31st, 2008 filed in BirdsComment now »
Bird-watching is a fun activity you can do almost anytime anywhere, from dawn to dusk, apartment window to wilderness. Depending on what type of birds you want to see, you may 
need to go different places at different times. But if you’re just going out for fun, dawn is a good time. I really enjoy bird-watching and hope that you do or will too!
What You Should Have
- Binoculars
- Bird identification book
- Some that I use are National Audubon Society Field Guide to California by Peter Alden and Fred Heath (this one also includes various other plant and animal life), and Birds of Northern California by David Fix and Andy Bezener (you’ll want different ones depending on where you live)
- Notepad and pencil to record observations (optional)
- Water bottle (optional)
- Hat (optional
- Camera (optional)
To see the most birds you should stay still and quiet. Bird seed can help lure them closer. Try to stay relatively hidden. If you have binoculars, you can stay farther away and therefore not scare them as much.
For a fun bird
-watching challenge you can participate in the annual Great Back Yard Bird Count. Where you record your observations to help scientists learn what’s in your area at what time, and how their population is doing.
Baby Animals at Hidden Villa Farm
Posted by juliana on March 29th, 2008 filed in farm animalsComment now »
In the spring time there are baby animals at Hidden Villa farm. I just went there and saw sheep, lambs, cows, a calf, pigs, piglets, chicks, chickens, and goats. My favorite animals there were the lambs and the calf.
Lambs
There were eight lambs at Hidden Villa when I went there. Two of them were only one day old! They were very cute! Two lambs were black, and six of them were black and white. I pet some of the black and white ones. Their wool is so dense and soft! The lambs were one of my favorite parts!
Calves
There was one calf when I went to Hidden Villa. Her name was Luna. That’s because she was born on the lunar eclipse. Her mother and grandmother also live at Hidden Villa. One thing that I really enjoyed watching was when Luna was in the field with her mother, grandmother, ewes and lambs. She would go over and try to play with the lambs, but then the ewe would sh
oo her away.
Piglets
Hidden Villa occasionally has piglets, not only in the spring. When I was there, their current piglets were almost full grown, but 2 months ago they were much smaller. Hidden Villa also has three adult pigs, one of which is the piglets’ mother.
Chicks
On this visit, Hidden Villa had about fifteen chicks. Some of them included Buff Orpingtons, 
Rhode Island Reds, and Araucanas. They also have about one hundred full grown chickens of many different breeds.
A Book Review for Cesar’s Way
Posted by juliana on March 9th, 2008 filed in Books, Dogs2 Comments »
I just finished reading the book Cesar’s Way: The Natural, Everyday Guide to Understanding and Correcting Common Dog Problems
Cesar’s Way really helped me understand my dog better! A better understanding of your dog helps with training, your relationship with your dog, etc…
One of the main points of the book is expressed in his statement : “Exercise, discipline, affection,…in that order.” Cesar Millan also goes on to say, “Why is the order important? Because it is the natural order of your dog’s inborn needs.” He recommends 1/2 exercise, 1/4 discipline, and 1/4 affection.
If you think about it, it’s quite simple. Imagine yourself in a wolf pack. You’re hunting, running after the prey — exercise. The alpha wolves eats first, they are disciplining the others — discipline. After that you rest, grooming other wolves, showing affection.
My Top Cat Books
Posted by juliana on March 8th, 2008 filed in Books, Cats1 Comment »
Here are some of my favorite cat books. I really recommend all of the books listed below!
by Phillip Gonzalez and Leonore Fleischer
Non-fiction
“A wonderful book about a dog named Ginny who can sense cats in trouble, that dog and cat-lovers can enjoy!”
by Jeffery Mousaieff Masson
Non-fiction
“An amazing book that deeply explains the minds and emotions of cats.”
by Doreen Tovey
Non-fiction
“A hilarious book about the author’s siamese cats.”
by May Sarton
Fiction
“A funny book about the life of the author’s cat, Tom Jones, from his point of view.”
Goldendoodles - A Wonderful Dog Breed
Posted by juliana on March 2nd, 2008 filed in Dogs2 Comments »
I have a four year old Goldendoodle named Kali. She is black, with brown eyes, and wavy thick fur/hair (my family calls it “fair”).
Her mother is a Golden Retriever and her father is a black Poodle. This is why she has fur/hair, because Poodles have hair instead of fur. This is a benefit if you have allergies (Read WebMD article). If your allergies are really bad you may want to consider a Goldendoodle back crossed with a Poodle.
The majority of Goldendoodles are full of energy. So you should have enough time and energy to give your Goldendoodle the exercise time she needs. About an hour a day is good.
Sometimes Goldendoodles have a barking or pulling problem. For the pulling, a Gentle Leader head collar really helps. We have tried quite a few things for the barking. The thing that seems to work best is a remote that emits a high-pitched sound that humans can’t hear, only dogs. If you’re not at home though, you can install a box, that is triggered when your dog barks. There is also quite a variety of collars that help with barking. Sometimes, all you need is more toys, bones, and treats, so your dog isn’t bored.
Petsitting
Posted by juliana on February 23rd, 2008 filed in PetsittingComment now »
I have been pet sitting for a few years now. My first (and most frequent) client was Buttercup and his family. Buttercup is a wonderful bunny, and he was a great pet to learn on.
I think pet sitting is great for learning about responsibility. Also, you can learn about caring for that animal, and see if it would make a good pet for you. If you are a kid, and considering a career with animals, pet sitting might be a great first job. Also you can earn some money from it, which is a nice reward for your hard work.
To be good at taking care of a pet, especially if you haven’t had experience with that type of pet before, you should ask the owner lots of questions. You should learn about how much food to give, how many times to come over, etc… It is best to try to arrange a time to meet the pet and the family before they leave. I have found that it is good to bring a pencil and notebook to this meeting to take notes. You should learn the family’s phone number and their vet information. This way, you’ll be prepared for anything.
Ano Nuevo Elephant Seals
Posted by juliana on February 17th, 2008 filed in Marine WildlifeComment now »
From November through March there are Elephant seals at Ano Nuevo state beach. They come to shore only to molt, mate, and give birth. For the breeding season the males begin to arrive in November, and the females in December. The females begin to leave in February and the males, in March. For molting, females and juveniles molt from April through May, young males, from May through June, adult males from July through August.
You start the tour on a gorgeous walk from the visitors center to the beach. Along the way the guide may to show you some interesting plant and animal life, such as the rare Crested Cara Cara who started coming to Ano Nuevo. On the walk the guide will be happy to answer any questions you may have.
Why are they called Elephant seals? Is a question you might be asking. Because the males have a trunk, just like an Elephant. They use this trunk for vocalization.
I went in mid February which is a great time to see weaners (elephant seals whose mothers have just left) and babies. When the babies are born they weigh 75 pounds and quickly gain up to 10 pounds a day on milk that is 55% fat! In a month, they may weigh up to 300 pounds. That though, is nothing compared to adult males weighing around 2 tons.
With a guide you can get within 20 feet of the elephant seals. Even though you are rather close, you still may want to bring binoculars, also a camera and water are good things to bring.
Some of the noises the males make are quite extraordinary. From moans, burps, and a noise that sound like the elephant seal is banging on a kitchen pan.
Getting Ready for your Parakeet
Posted by juliana on February 16th, 2008 filed in Birds, ParakeetsComment now »
Owning parakeets is a lot of fun, they are rather cheap and easy to care for pets, but you have to consider the responsibilities and upkeep. Here is a bit about what you need and need to consider before getting your bird.
What You Need Checklist:
- cage (consider how many parakeets you’re getting for size)
- cage cover (a blanket or towel will work fine)
- newspaper or litter to line cage bottom
- seed holder
- water holder
- toy (one is fine to start of, but your parakeet will get bored if you don’t get more or rotate toys)
- seed ( I use KAYTEE Forti-diet for parakeets)
- treats (optional)
- perches (at least two)
- cuttle bone (optional, but you should have it to give your parakeets the right nutrients)
You should have everything on the checklist ready before getting your parakeet. It will be less stressful for the parakeet if you can put it in its new home as soon as possible.Positioning Everything
The cage should be positioned in a room you spend a lot of time in, so your parakeet won’t be lonely. Not the kitchen, though, because the fumes can be toxic. The cage should be placed away from drafts, so it shouldn’t be by a window or air vent. The best height for the cage is chest level, this way you are slightly above your parakeet, so they consider you dominant, which makes training easier (because in the wild more dominant parakeets sit on higher branches). Also your parakeet isn’t too low to the ground, so they aren’t scared.
The perches should be placed far enough apart to give your parakeets a bit of exercise, but close enough that they can fly from one to another even with clipped wings. One should be placed under each toy, cuttle bone, and food or water container (if their aren’t perches already attached to them). If the food bowl has a nice rim, and is within easy flying distance of another perch, that would be o.k. too. The water basically follows the same rules as the food. You can place the water next to the food and they can share a perch, but you will have to change the water more often, because seeds might get into it.One Or Two?One or two depends on you, your parakeet, and your lifestyle. If you are gone at work or school most of the day, and only are home in the morning and at night, you should definitely get two. Parakeets are extremely social birds and need lots of company, this can be you or another parakeet. If you work at home or home school, and can spend a lot of time with your parakeet, then one will be fine. Even if you think your spending a lot of time with your parakeet, if your parakeet appears lonely you might want two.Male Or Female?Male or female doesn’t really matter much in your parakeets personality. Except that males are typically easier to teach to talk. So, if you want a talking parakeet, you might have better luck with a male. If you are going to get two parakeets, just for pets, and not for breeding, you would want ones of the same gender. To tell the to apart, look at their cere, located above their beak, where their nose holes are. Males typically have lavender or blue, and females have either brown, although when they are chicks they are light pink.
Advice on Fostering Kittens
Posted by juliana on February 10th, 2008 filed in CatsComment now »
Fostering kittens is lots of fun as well as hard work. Most of the time, you are playing the parental role in the kitten’s life. I have fostered kittens for a few years, and it is a very rewarding experience. Many young kittens (old cats too) are euthanized, especially in spring (kitten season). By fostering these kittens, you are giving them another chance in life. If you are fostering kittens, or considering fostering kittens, I have found that this is useful information.
FOOD
When they are kittens, they should have dry food and (for cats of any age) water available at all times.
There are different types of dry food for different ages of kittens, for example, there is food for mothers and their (about 2-8 week old) kittens, which is usually small, and has plenty of nutrition for very young kittens and nursing mothers ( I use Royal Canin), and then there is food for older kittens (8 weeks-six months) with the right nutrition for them(I use IAMS). Kittens should be fed canned food twice a day (some good brands are; Friskies and Fancy Feast).
HEALTH
If your foster kitten was a stray or was in a shelter with a lot of cats it is possible that he/she could be sick. The younger the kitten is the more susceptible to disease. If you have very young kittens, you should keep a close eye on them. Here is a bit about different sicknesses:
Ringworm: ringworm is probably the most important sickness. If your kitten does have ringworm it is important to find it early on, because it is quite contagious. People and cats can both get it. If you think your kitten is likely to have it, look for a spot where there isn’t much fur, and somewhere in there you will find a brown or reddish/pink circle. If you find this DON’T touch it or you will get it too. Call the shelter you are fostering for or the shelter’s vet’s office to get the right medicine. The kittens that have it can be kept together, but keep them away from other cats until they are completely healed. Check all the cats that the contagious kittens were with.
Runny Noses: runny noses aren’t always serious but they can be uncomfortable for the kitten, and you probably don’t want to take them to the adoption fair until they’re healed. They are a symptom of an upper respiratory infection. Call the shelter you’re fostering for or their vet’s office to ask what medicine (if any) is needed. Meanwhile daily, or more depending on how bad it is, apply a warm, wet rag, washcloth, or hand towel to the kitten’s nose and hold for as long as the kitten let’s you, continue daily (or more) to do this until all the crusty stuff on the nose is gone.
Eye Infections: Another sickness is an eye infection. You can tell if your kitten has this pretty easily, your kitten’s eye will be swelling or will have some gooey green, yellow or brown discharge around the eye. Contact your shelter for medication, which is usually applied onto the eye or eyelid with a Q-tip. An important thing to know when your foster kitten gets sick is how to give medication. To give a kitten medication out of a dropper, hold the kitten in your lap and poke the dropper into the side of the kitten’s mouth (not too deep) and squirt. If your kitten struggles a lot, as many do, it may help to have another person to hold the kitten.
Diarrhea: diarrhea is often caused when their litter is not scooped often enough (daily is good), they’re not getting the right nutrition, or as a side-effect of another sickness (sometimes serious, sometimes not, you just have to wait and see). If they have diarrhea, scoop their litter often, and give them small amounts of canned pumpkin or plain or vanilla yogurt (sometimes yogurt only makes it worse though).
SOCIALIZATION
When you first get your kittens they may have been strays or were abused, if this is the case it will take a while for you to gain their trust, but it will be worth it. One of the most important things is patience. Let them come to you on their own time, not yours. I know it’s really exciting, and you just want to run up and cuddle them, but this will only scare them. Over time they will realize that you won’t hurt them, and that you only bring them good, safety, food, and toys. It took quite a while for a foster kitten I had, named Dee Dee, but she turned out to be one of the sweetest kittens I have ever met. In the end it was completely worth it, because she found a loving home with her sister. Once they come to you, let them get used to your smell and a little bit of petting. Over time in small steps, you will have a very sweet kitten.
PLAY
Play is an important part of a kitten’s life. In the wild, they play to learn how to hunt, although domestic kittens don’t need to hunt, play is still important. You should supply your kitten with plenty of toys; a scratching post (if your kitten has a scratching post, he/she is less likely to do anything to your furniture, more about this in “Training”), toy mice, balls, feather toys, etc. If you are fostering or considering fostering more than one kitten, you will notice them playing among themselves. Sometimes it may seem rough and like a real fight, but usually it is just play. But, if you notice teeth bared and a lot of hissing, especially if one’s smaller than the other, you may want to try to lure one away, but don’t get in between them.
TRAINING
Training is sometimes hard but if you want to find your kitten a good home it is necessary. Biting and scratching are some big problems. If your kitten bites or scratches you while she’s in your lap stand up, if you’re petting her, stop, if you’re holding her, put her down, each of these with a firm, rather loud “No!” She’ll learn that if she wants attention she has to behave. If it’s your furniture that’s being attacked, make sure you have a scratching post, sometimes this will be the simple ‘problem solved’. If she still is scratching/biting your furniture use a firm “No!” or shake or rattle something. Another tactic is a spray bottle, whenever your kitten scratches your furniture spray her, just a little bit though. An important thing to make the spray bottle work is to make sure your kitten can’t see that you are spraying her, this will make her think that when she scratches your furniture she is sprayed with water and will stop. This may seem cruel, but it isn’t , this isn’t hurting your kitten, just getting her a little bit wet and surprised.
ADOPTION
Even if your kitten isn’t yet old enough to go to an adoption fair, most shelters will want a biography in advance, a biography will tell about their personalities, likes and dislikes, and the way they look. The biography that goes onto the shelter’s website should also have a picture of the kitten. It is good to do their biography and take their picture early so that people can put them on hold when they’re still really cute. If the kitten has siblings that haven’t yet been adopted, include the name of one of them that your kitten is pals with, so that people might consider two. In the case of two your kitten won’t be as scared going to his/her new home, and it will probably be easier for you too, knowing that your kitten won’t be alone. Once, I was fostering a litter of four two-week-old kittens and since I put up their biographies when they were still little they all got put on hold. I included their sibling’s names and they were all adopted in pairs.
An Adoption Fair is somewhere you drop your kitten(s) off, usually at a pet store on the weekends with people from the shelter. They will go in a cage with their siblings (if any) or sometimes with another cat if they get along and people will come to adopt them. It is very rare for all the kittens to get adopted at the first fair, because there are lots of other cats, so don’t get your hopes up.
LETTING GO
When your kitten finds a home it can be really hard to say goodbye. You’ve taken care of this kitten since he/she ( I’ll use she for now) was little and have formed a close relationship with her. You’re so glad she found a home, but then, you’re sad too, this is goodbye, probably forever. Here are some ways to make goodbye easier: Send a toy with your kitten to her new home, send along the rest of her bag of food or treats, spend a lot of time with her before she leaves, telling her how much you love her, how much you’ll miss her, and how you hope she’ll be happy in her home.